No more guessing when the holding tank is full. We installed a tank monitor on Nirvana so we know when to pump out!
I have been keeping my year-old Sailrite sewing machine busy with boat canvas and sail projects, to make way for the next ones on my list.
- mainsail repairs for Julie & Ryan’s yet-to-be-named Catalina 25
- new LifeSling 2 cover for Nirvana to match all the other sunbrella on-board
- instrument panel cover v3.0 for Trident (this one can be tied to the boat so it won’t blow away in 50+ knot winds)
- sailcover repairs for Cupholder
- new mainsail luff-tape cover for Nirvana‘s furling boom
- tool roll-ups for Monte, one for his metric wrenches, and one for his SAE wrenches
- custom mattress covers & sheet sets for Nirvana‘s fore and aft cabins
- sailcover repairs for Catalina 25
- tiller cover for Catalina 25
- design and make custom bags from an old Hunter mainsail that marina-friends Thomas and Monique gifted me
- new stern-rail seat cushions for Nirvana
- repairs to Nirvana‘s salon cushions
- shade cloth rollups for Nirvana‘s bimini
Bring it on!
We baked in the sun while seeking refuge at the lake from the 100 degree temps this weekend. Julie joined us on Saturday afternoon. We stayed the night. We floated, kayaked, SUP-ed, and played on the lake with Marty, Sue, and some of the other sailors with boats nearby. I was tuckered out by the time we got home Sunday night. That’s hard work.
Sunday morning in the slip…
Monte completed the install of our new head on Nirvana this week! The work was interrupted by this shelter-in-place for a couple of months. But he made several trips this week and declared it done yesterday.
So today we went to the lake and took her out. We anchored and jumped in and floated in the lake for the first time this year. Water temps were still a tad chilly at 79 degrees F, but we sucked it up.
We went out to the boat today!!! And, oh, lord, did the old girl need some TLC. I couldn’t bring myself to take a before picture. It was bad.
But, after about 3 hours cleaning the topsides, she looks mahvelous. At least one day this year, my boat will be clean!
I knocked out a quick project today as rain soaked the yard. It’s a bag to hold a 3L boxed-wine bladder. Boats don’t much like things made out of cardboard; roaches do. So we don’t bring cardboard on-board. This bag will hold, hang, and dispense the wine instead, so we can toss the box for recycling. Yes, that’s right, I just ooze class. 🙂
Okay, I’m a tiny bit ecstatic. I finished the mainsail repairs today. And the slow, endless rain of the last week or so has moved on. So we drove out to the marina and tied the main back on, then took Nirvana out for a sail for the first time in about 3 months. We hoisted both the main and the jib. It was the first time taking Nirvana out since I repaired each of the sails. The winds were light, but I loved seeing them out and in the wind.
Time has flown by since we took Nirvana’s mainsail home at the beginning of December. But we’ve not been idle. We’ve had a lot going on; a few visits from family and friends, an Atlantic coast boat delivery, the holidays, the bathroom remodel, yardwork, life, etc. But I think I’m almost ready to start repairing the main.
I’ve made a scale drawing of the sail and all its detail (including seams, layers of dacron, batten pockets, luff and leech tape, direction of the warp & weft/fill – or weave – of each piece of the sail’s construction, etc). On top of that, I marked the location of the damaged areas that need to be repaired. Using this, I can figure out a strategy of what pieces to replace, the dimension of each piece, and then lay them out on scale drawings of 54″ wide dacron yardage so I can figure out how much I need to cut out all the pieces with the weave in the required direction.
Nirvana’s sail is a bit unusual – at least for a US boat – in that it has a furling boom (a Forespar LeisureFurl furling boom). It’s a very nice upgrade that is reportedly prevalent in Australia and New Zealand sailboats. We like the convenience and the fact that our furling boom allows us to have full battens in our main. As I’m preparing to repair the mainsail, I’ve learned that sails for LeisureFurl booms are built with multiple layers, or plies, toward the leech end of the sail, which is required to ensure proper furling of the main. It just makes things a bit more interesting (complicated), as that is where the majority of the damage is. I’ve also spent time on the phone with Sailrite and Forespar to ensure I use the right weight of dacron for the replacement pieces.
The repairs I plan to make to the mainsail include:
– Replacing the bolt rope tape on the luff of the sail. This goes into a track on the aft-side of the mainmast as the sail is raised and lowered. It is well worn due to wear and UV damage.
– Replacing the dacron tape along the leech of the sail. This is well worn and cracking due to wear and UV damage.
– Replacing areas of varying widths along the entire leech of the sail where UV damage has degraded much of the top ply of dacron. The previous owner neglected to replace a worn sail cover before selling her, probably for a couple of years, resulting in a wide swath of cracked and torn dacron that remained exposed to the sun when the main was furled.
I’ve been taking my time, as sail work is new to me, and I have a lot to learn. The first 2 sets of repairs are straightforward. The third set of repairs is non-trivial and essentially requires replacement of much of the top 2 plies of the sail.
The picture below shows the drawing I’ve made of the port-side of Nirvana’s approximately 13 1/2′ x 38′ mainsail. The brown lines represent the batten pockets that are on top of all the layers of dacron and the luff & leech tape. I essentially need to remove and replace the pink and blue layers of dacron on the aft-end of the sail.
Because of the order in which the parts of the mainsail are sewn, I’ll have to pull up the existing batten pockets to remove the worn pieces of the sail, then sew in the new pieces of dacron, and then sew the batten pockets back down, before sewing the luff and leech tape on. I’ll also have to replace a couple of the numbers on the sail when all the repairs are done, as some of the sections that need replacement are under the sail numbers.
This is definitely more complicated than the repairs I made to the jib a few months back. But, I’m cautiously optimistic that I can do this. Stay tuned to see how it turns out.
We brought home the jib from Nirvana. It has several tears and wear that needs some TLC. I’m setting out to mend this 42′ x 17′ triangular mass of Dacron. Who will win? Stay tuned.
One of the salon cushions on our Catalina 320 tore along a center seam. I tried mending it once and it just tore again, as the fabric had significantly weakened along the seam. I think the material is Ultrafabric Brisa Original (from around 2005). I haven’t been able to find a color match yet. It’s just as well, though, as the fabric runs around $65/yard. I’m not ready to reupholster the entire set of salon cushions yet. Soooo, what can I use for a temporary fix?
I decided to repurpose a length of Tear-Aid Type-A tape that I originally got to patch a few holes in our Sunbrella bimini skin. It should adhere well to Brisa’s polyester and rayon backing. It’s not supposed to be sewn-through, but I don’t need a waterproof seal. I simply want to use it to patch along the back-side of the rip and to strengthen and reinforce the area around the tear so I can stitch a new seam through it, about 1/4″ in from the tear.
So I gave it a shot… and I’m happy with the repair. Now I just need to wait and see how long it holds up. Fingers crossed!
If you’re interested, here’s a few pics as I tried the fix.
I removed the cover from the inner cushion pieces, and ripped out the old seam on all 3 pieces of fabric involved in the seam. The alcohol is to clean the Brisa fabric backing, where I want to apply the Tear-Aid. The hair dryer is to help me flatten out the old folded seam allowance, and also to help dry the backing after I cleaned it.
Both pieces of Brisa are torn along the old seam. I’ll need to patch both pieces in a similar fashion before trying to sew a new seam.
Tear-Aid says to clean the application area with alcohol and let dry. As I cleaned the fabric with alcohol, I saw that the backing material was rotted away in places. So I removed all the non-adhered backing along the tear. Not sure how it got in this condition. Maybe something caustic spilled here and weakened the fabric. Or maybe 15 years is all you can get out of Brisa.
After cleaning and drying the pieces of Brisa, I used scotch tape on the right side (outside) of the tear to hold the edges of the tear together, temporarily. I’ll remove it after I apply the Tear-Aid to the wrong side (inside) of the torn fabric.
I cut a length of Tear-Aid Type A tape and applied it on the backing-side of the Brisa fabric along the tears. Tear-Aid recommends leaving an inch of patch around any torn area, but I didn’t have that much of material along the old seam allowance, so I used a smaller piece than they’d probably recommend.
I removed the scotch tape from the right-side of the pieces of Brisa, and clipped the right-sides of Brisa together to prepare for stitching the new seam. This time I’ll sew THROUGH the newly applied Tear-Aid, approx 1/4″ in from the tear along the old seam.
Stitching the seam was a bit challenging, as the adhesive from the patch gummed up the needle every 6 inches or so. But, as long as I cleaned the needle each time with alcohol, it stitched pretty well. I used a ballpoint (recommended for Brisa) needle, size 16, and V-69 poly thread, and I also found I had to lower my top thread tension.
There you have it.
My latest canvas-work project… a cover for the grill off the back of the boat. Voila!
Making my own pattern was definitely the hardest part.
If Monte stands around too long in one place, I’ll make a cover for him, too!
I spent today and another day last weekend sitting in the bottom of our port-side lazerette at the stern of the boat. We lost the electronic control unit of our auto helm in a lightening strike at the marina earlier this year. We got off easy; a neighboring boat’s electronics repairs from the same strike is over $80K and counting. Marty gave us a unit that he used to have on their boat. We installed it over the course of the last two weeks. Lots of pulling of cables through tiny stainless steel tubing, making new electric connections, and squeezing into small spaces.
Marty and Sue accompanied us on the calibration run. Everything worked! It’s nice to have Otto back.
I’m slowly working down my boat sewing project list. I made 5 winch covers for our jib sheet winches, house top winches, and windlass. I used Sailrite’s pattern and instructions as a guide. My takeaway: it is not easy to sew a circle onto a rectangle.
I also replaced our frayed and yucky bimini straps, having to sew a loop and attach the fastener-buckle thingie before installing.
Bring on the next project!
First some terminology…
Sailboats have barriers along the perimeter of their decks that are meant to keep people from falling off. We call these barriers lifelines. Lifelines have gates that can be opened to let people walk through them when docked or rafted up. These gates are typically created by putting a piece of hardware that opens and closes on the lifeline at the gate called a pelican hook.
Still with me?
Pelican hooks have a tiny little ring that you pull to open them. It’s usually difficult to grab the little ring just right.
To make it easier, you can put a little fob, or lanyard, on the ring that you can more easily grab and pull the pelican hook to open the gate in the lifeline.
Long story short, today I made a set of these lanyards for Nirvana’s lifeline gates. 2 for port, 2 for starboard.
Here’s how I made them if you’re interested.
The easy part is learning how to tie the individual cobra weave knots. So I’ll leave that out and just share one of many links that I looked at to help me figure out the basic cobra knot: here. The hard part was figuring out the best jig or setup to easily secure the cord while tying the cobra knots. I’ll share what I came up with.
What you’ll need:
– 95 paracord (1.75mm wide)
– measuring tape
– lighter or hot-knife to melt cut ends of the cord
– carabiner with 2 big paper clips attached (the jig I came up with)
– tweezers and/or a crochet hook to pull the working ends of the cord back through and under the cobra weave knots to bury them and finish the lanyard
To make a 3-1/2″ finished lanyard out of 95 paracord, I used 44″ pieces for each lanyard. Cut to length and fold that in half.
Tie a simple overhand loop knot 3 1/2 inches from the midpoint of the piece of cord. This defines the finished length of the lanyard.
The carabiner and paper clips make up my jig for holding the cord while tying the cobra weave knots. Other people use different things; pegboards, wire harnesses, etc. Basically, you want something you can pull against to keep the cord taut while you are tying the cobra weave knots with the two working ends of the cord. This is what worked for me.
The carabiner can easily be clipped onto a drawer handle or hook. The paper clips make it easy to loop the 2 working ends of the cord to start the first cobra weave knot. And they make it easy to slip the finished lanyard off them as well.
Before tying the first cobra weave knot…
After tying 3 to 4 cobra knots…
Keep tying cobra weave knots (9 or 10) until you have about 1 inch of the loop left. Remove lanyard from carabiner and paper clips.
To finish the lanyard, you need to pull the working ends of the cord back under the length of cobra weave knots that you just tied. This will bury them and keep the lanyard from coming untied when it is in use. This is where the tweezers and/or crochet hook come in. I pulled the working ends under about 4 or 5 of the knots.
Then trim and melt the cut ends of the cords; the finished lanyard…