Tortilla Española.

Monte and I threw a party over the Christmas holidays. We got a leg of Jamón Serrano to get things started, and so we made tapas the theme for the rest of the nibblies that we served.

A mainstay in any tapas bar in Spain is the Tortilla Española, a traditional dish made with eggs and potatoes, with a little onion in most cases. When I lived in Spain, I remember spending a day learning how to cook it with my friend Conchita. I’ve made it a few times over the years. But it has been a very, very long time since I tried to again.

I made a practice one earlier in the week, to make sure I could still do it 🙂 That turned out ok, so I made a few more the day before the party. I thought they turned out great, so I’ll share the recipe here.

Ingredients:

The biggest mystery for me was getting the correct amount of ingredients for the specific skillet size I had at my disposal. In my case, it was a 10″ skillet. So the ingredient amounts here are for making a tortilla in a skillet of that size.

Potatoes: I swear by golden potatoes for pretty much any kind of potato dish I make – other than baked potatoes, that is, for which russets are the best. So this means yukon gold, Idaho gold, etc. The golden potatoes I found were small to medium-sized, as opposed to large. I found that starting with about 1.5 pounds of golden potatoes was more than enough for one tortilla and my 10″ skillet. This ended up being about 6 of my smallish gold potatoes, peeled and sliced thin.

Eggs: 6 large eggs worked nicely.

Onion: Sweet onions are my preferred variety. I used half of a medium-sized sweet onion, sliced thin.

Olive oil: You’ll need 1.5- 2 cups of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. You’ll know you have the right amount if it just covers the potatoes while they are cooking.

Salt: I like to use kosher salt. I didn’t measure the salt, but added it along the way as noted.

Kitchen Tools:

It’s important to make sure you have all the kitchen equipment that you’ll need beforehand (in addition to a potato peeler, knives, etc). Here’s a summary of what I used:

– Two 10″ skillets, one without non-stick (for the cooking of the onions, and the preparation of the potatoes) and one with non-stick (for the actual cooking of the tortilla after all the ingredients have been prepared). You can probably get away with one, but if you plan to make more than one tortilla, having two skillets allows you to overlap some steps.

– A mesh strainer and bowl to drain oil from the cooked potatoes after cooking them. You can reuse the strained oil if cooking more than one tortilla.

– A large bowl to hold the combined egg, potato, and onion mixture before the final cooking step.

– A big, flat metal scoop with holes to transfer the cooked potato slices from the oil to the strainer. This is because you want to keep the potatoes flat when transferring them, or they will break up into small pieces, which you should try to avoid.

– A mandolin for slicing potatoes thin (I used the 3mm setting).

– A wide-ended set of tongs that can be used to grab the potatoes as they are cooking in the oil and flip them in place, for even cooking. These are the red tongs in my photo below. I wish I had something bigger/better, but these silicon spatula tongs worked ok for the task.

– A mostly flat plate, a little bigger than the top of your skillet, used to flip the tortilla. You don’t want a lip on the edge of the plate, as you want to be able to slide the tortilla from plate to pan easily.

Making the tortilla:

Makes 1 tortilla. Cooking time… more than you think. Probably about 1.5 hours overall, if you’re as slow as I am.

  • 1 1/2 lbs gold potatoes (weight before peeling), then peeled, and sliced 3mm (~ 1/8”) thin on a mandolin.
  • 6 large eggs
  • 1/2 medium sweet onion, sliced thin
  • 1 1/2 – 2 cups extra virgin olive oil

Peel potatoes, soak in a bowl of water for 5-10 mins before slicing.

Slice potatoes 3mm thin on a mandolin. Soak again in a bowl of water for 5-10 minutes after slicing. I like to think the soaking removes some starch, yielding more even cooking and a smoother texture. But who knows. 🙂

This next step may seem a little odd, but it’s important to dry the potatoes before cooking them in the hot oil. Lay out potatoes and pat both sides dry. Then toss with several pinches of kosher salt and set aside.

In a separate bowl, mix the 6 eggs, adding a pinch of kosher salt. Set aside.

Slice onion thin.

Saute sliced onion in 1 Tbsp of olive oil, until soft and caramelized. Set aside. When cool, stir the onions into the egg mixture. Set aside

Add about 1 1/2 cups of olive oil into skillet, and heat on medium-low until oil is shimmery, but not boiling. We are not frying the potatoes in the oil, we are poaching them til they are tender. When the oil is hot, add a slice or two of potato to see if the temperature is right. You don’t want it to fry like a McDonald’s french fry. Sizzle is ok. If it looks right, add the potatoes. Make sure that you have plenty of room above the potatoes in the skillet so as to not overflow the oil when flipping the potatoes. If not, you probably have too many potatoes. Add oil, if necessary, to cover the top of the potatoes.

Cook the potatoes til soft in the oil for about 25 minutes, carefully flipping the potatoes to ensure even cooking. You want them to be soft when you pierce them with a knife, but not crumbly. Think of the texture of scalloped potatoes when cooked – soft to the tooth, but still with some body.

When you think you’re there, carefully scoop the potatoes out little by little (using the flat scoop) into the mesh strainer, using a bowl to capture the strained oil. The potatoes need to sit til they are cool enough to add to the egg mixture without cooking the eggs (around 10 minutes)

When the potatoes are cool enough to touch, you can add them to the egg and onion mixture. Gently combine them. Then the combined egg, potato, and onion mixture must sit for 15 minutes. This is where the magic happens.

The egg, cooked potatoes, and onion mixture

Heat a non-stick skillet with a teaspoon or two of olive oil on medium-low heat. When the pan is hot, add the combined egg, potato, and onion mixture into the pan. Cook for 6-8 minutes. You can use a spatula to round the edges of the tortilla as it cooks.

What this recipe’s amount of ingredients looks like in the 10″ skillet

After 6-8 minutes, see if you can insert a spatula under the tortilla to see the color of the bottom. If it is not browned a little it needs more time. If it is golden and a little browned, you can flip it to the other side. It can be a little runny on the top when you flip it. But it should be mostly cooked from the bottom up.

To flip the tortilla, place the flat plate upside down on top of the hot skillet. Using hot pads, grab both sides of the skillet and the plate at the same time, and invert the whole thing. Set the inverted pan and plate on the counter. Lift the pan and place it back on the stove to continue cooking the other side. Then gently slide the tortilla back into the skillet with the half-cooked side up. You may have a little bit of loose egg and potato left on the plate.

The tortilla cooking side 2 after flipping.

Cook the other side of the tortilla for another 6-8 minutes til firm and similarly browned.

When done, use a clean plate and use the technique above to flip the cooked tortilla onto it.

Et voila! The tortilla can be served hot, or at room temperature. Cooking it a day before you need it is just fine. Just let it cool before refrigerating. And then remove from the refrigerator a little while before serving so it can come up to room temperature.

I wish I had taken more of the earlier steps. When I make another one, I’ll try to remember to take additional. If so, I’ll come back here and add them.

Til then, ¡Buen Provecho!

Pretty good pizza.

I love it when Monte wants to experiment with his pizza dough recipe. It’s always excellent, but he always thinks it can be a little bit better. Lucky me.

Feeling crafty!

Ann hosted a brunch today to give us our annual craft challenge. This year it is a pomander! Bonus: it smells great. Thanks to Ann for a fun afternoon. 🧡

Home.

While we were away, we left a key with our neighbors, so they could use the shop. When we got home, we found that they’d left us a bag of their home-roasted espresso beans on the counter. What a nice welcome home surprise. ☕️🤎

Salisbury Cathedral.

We couldn’t leave Salisbury without visiting its Cathedral. Salisbury Cathedral construction began in 1220 and was completed in 1258. The pointy bits, the tower and spire, were added by 1330, but 38 years is a very short time to construct a working cathedral!

The western entrance to Salisbury Cathedral.

We took a tour of the Cathedral and saw its copy of the Magna Carta of 1215, one of only four surviving copies.

The Magna Carta was created in 1215 and established core rights for the people to protect them from overreach by the King. Tenets of the Magna Carta exist in British law today, as well as in the US Constitution, such as the idea that no man (or king) is above the law, and rights such as due process and speedy trial by jury.

The document is written on a single piece of sheepskin parchment, in very tiny Latin text. The overall parchment is about 18″ x 24″.

Photos of the Magna Carta were not permitted, but this image of the Magna Carta was available to photograph, so this is what you get 🙂

Salisbury Cathedral is beautiful and built in the Gothic style. It is special in its double transept design. Viewed from above, you’d see two north-south cross bars in the typical cross-shaped layout of a cathedral, instead of one.

View from the north of Salisbury Cathedral. The double transepts can be seen below and to the left of the main tower.

Like other English cathedrals, Salisbury Cathedral experienced some damage during the Reformation and the English Civil War. But, it is said to be not as extensive as what other cathedrals experienced. Likewise, it was spared damage in WWII.

Inside the nave of Salisbury Cathedral
The Trinity Chapel on the east end of the Salisbury Cathedral – the oldest portion of the Cathedral.
A view looking west from the Choir in Salisbury Chapel

The Cathedral has a beautifully designed modern baptismal font, the design of which is echoed in several altars throughout.

A view looking east with the nave reflected in the baptismal font.
A view looking west with a reflection of the nave in the glass top of the main altar.
The ceiling of the Charter House, where the Magna Carta resides.

On our way out, we strolled through the Cloisters of the Cathedral as the sun began to set.

After thoroughly exploring two cathedrals in two days, we were glad to head back to the hotel for our last night in Salisbury.

We took one last walk through the market square and found a lovely wine bar with nibblies for dinner.

Tomorrow… Greenwich!


Links for the curious:

Salisbury Cathedral’s website to plan your visit.

Salisbury Magna Carta history and information.

A ship (not a boat).

The reason Monte and I were in NYC was to board the Queen Mary 2 for a week-long transatlantic cruise to Southampton, in the UK. Over the years, we had always pooh-poohed the idea of taking a cruise, being little boat sailors. But we really had a great time.

This’ll be a long post, so for the TL;DR crowd: if you’re on the fence about going on a cruise on the Queen Mary 2, you should just do it. 🙂

We boarded Pier 12 at the Brooklyn Cruise Ship Terminal, an easy walk from our hotel in Red Hook. The weather was brisk, but it was bright and sunny most days.

Our first glimpse as we rounded the corner at the cruise terminal

The Queen Mary 2 (QM2) is a Cunard ocean liner. One of the many things I’ve learned over the last week or two is that an ocean liner is different than a cruise ship in many ways; most importantly, their speed, hull strength for long ocean passages, and stability. These ocean liners have hydraulic stabilizers below the water line that attempt to counteract the ship’s roll, pitch, and yaw. I believe we averaged 21 knots on our eastbound crossing, and this was in what a sailboat would consider very challenging conditions (4-6 meter seas and 25-40 knot winds), but the Queen Mary 2 made it along very comfortably.

The ship is filled with artwork, this is the Queen Mary 2 herself

Launched in 2003, the QM2 is a beautiful ship inside and out. And the Cunard standard of service is legendary. This was our first ever cruise, so we did a little research prior to leaving. They suggest dressing in “smart attire” for dinner, and have two gala nights where gowns and black tie is encouraged. We somehow found a way to pack for that in our carry-on sized roll aboards. And it was fun.

The sail away celebration above-decks was festive and we got great views of NYC as we left at 5 pm.

Leaving NYC behind
Approaching the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge
Passing under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge

We chose a balcony-cabin and loved it. I booked one midships on the starboard side, so we would not be exposed to the fall north winds, and to be able to see the sunrise most mornings on our northeasterly heading.

Welcome-aboard bubbly in our cabin 🥂

Deck 5 was very quiet. I know this crossing was probably fully booked, but we heard no one and nothing except the ocean when the door to the balcony was open. They have bigger suites, but ours worked out perfectly for us. Air temps were in the 50s, so it was chilly in late October. Even so, I found myself enjoying our balcony everyday.

Cabin 5087

We crawled all over the ship each day and I think we found and spent time in just about all the public spaces – some were harder to find than others, but all so lovely.

The Grand Lobby

The cruise departs NYC on a Friday evening, and arrives in Southampton the following Friday morning. I wondered how well I’d handle all those idle hours on board for a week. But I was not idle in the least. There are loads of activities and entertainment from morning through night everyday: classes, speakers, musical performers, exercise sessions, theatrical and comedy performers, too many to list.

There is constantly something going on to enjoy

Since we were traveling eastward, for 5 of the days at sea, the ship clock moved forward one hour at noon, so when we arrived in the UK, we’d already be on local time.

The food was delicious and always available. We had the same table for two in the restaurant each night, so we got to know our servers. We met different people every day on board which was also a hoot.

There is a formal afternoon tea every day in the Queen’s Room, which we took part in several times.

We attended some of the various entertainment every evening, but we always ended up in the Chart Room where the Vlad Zinchenko Trio played jazz all night long.

Jazz in the Chart Room

The promenade is on Deck 7, and 3 laps around it make a mile. Even though it was very windy, we made it out there several days to get our steps in. There’s also a great gym aboard that’s much warmer 🙂

A rainbow behind the ship, somewhere in the North Atlantic

I had hoped to take in some star gazing at night but boy was it windy on the top deck at night! I could have been easily blown off if I wasn’t paying attention. I’ll stick to dry land for celestial viewing.

But while up there I walked by the “Queen Mary 2” sign lit up below the smoke stack and was transported back to the night Lori and I left NY Harbor at sunset headed down to Cape May on Trident when I saw this same sign through the binoculars as I tried to read the name of that pretty ship that sailed by us at a distance as it left NY Harbor.

The QM2 name in lights up high on the ship

I just went back through my photo archive and found a picture from that very night on Trident, October 7, 2022. I remember telling Monte about it after I got home, and where it was headed, and he said, “we could do that.” And so we did 🙂

The QM2 sailing by SV Trident three years ago leaving NY Harbor

While sailing along the US coast from a sailboat, I’ve also seen, through binoculars, pilots boarding tankers while underway before entering a major harbor. So I wanted to try to get a glimpse of the pilot boarding the QM2 outside of the Solent strait before our arrival in Southampton. I got up very early and was fortunate to find they were boarding right below our cabin. I had a front row view. 🙂 What a job they have.

Pilot boarding the QM2 before entering the Solent – both going about 8 knots!

We planned to stay in England for 9 more days after disembarking; more on that later. I made use of the onboard laundry so our suitcases were full of clean clothes again when we arrived.

We had a blast. Until next time, Mary!

What a great ship ❤️🖤💛

Links for the curious:

Cunard’s transatlantic cruise website. You can call them and they will answer any questions you have, before or after you book.

Where to stay the night before departure? We stayed at Lodge Red Hook. Not fancy, but an easy walk to the Cruise Terminal. They also have a nice breakfast included. We flew in the day before, and it made for a stress-free transfer without worrying about unexpected travel delays. The Uber from JFK to the hotel was about $100.

There is also a convenient South Brooklyn-Manhattan foot ferry at the cruise terminal, which we used while we were there. To go to Manhattan, get on at Red Hook towards Corlears Hook. You can purchase tickets from a machine at the dock.

Red Hook visitor info. Red Hook is very walkable, and we found several nice restaurants and wine stores near the hotel.

Pro Tip: You can bring 1 bottle of wine/alcohol per passenger onto the QM2 in your carry-on luggage, so we made sure to pick up a couple of nice bottles in Red Hook before heading to the cruise terminal.

Red Hook.

I’ve been to NYC too many times to count, but I’ve never spent time in Brooklyn. We had a quick visit here, this time we stayed in Red Hook.

We enjoyed walking around the neighborhood, finding a nice lobster pound.

Red Hook Lobster Pound was great

And we took a nice tour up and down the East River.

Brooklyn Bridge
Governors Island to the left, Manhattan up ahead

We ran across this pretty boat, the SV Clearwater, getting some paint touch up. The Clearwater is the sloop Pete Seeger raised money for, and had built, to raise awareness of the pollution in the Hudson River back in the 1960s. It is still actively promoting environmental education as a floating classroom, and has inspired countless other efforts across the country. More info here: https://www.clearwater.org/the-sloop/

SV Clearwater

Til next time.

My main intent for this trip to Seattle was to see my 7 great nieces & nephews. ✅✅✅✅✅✅✅

I also spent some good time with all but one of my nieces and nephews, and my sisters. I got a chance to visit my friend Irene again. We surprised her mom who I last saw at our high school graduation too long ago. What a special treat.

The Pacific Northwest is beautiful. It never disappoints.

Old School Maine.

Earlier this month, Monte and I checked something off his wish list. We booked a 5-day/4-night cruise on the Lewis R. French. The French is a 2-masted gaff-rigged wooden schooner. Built in 1871 in Christmas Cove, it is the only remaining 19th-century schooner built in Maine. It is a National Historic Landmark, and is the oldest active commercial sailing vessel in the United States. It is part of the extensive Maine Windjammer Association, taking guests on 3-6 day cruise adventures in Penobscot Bay.

The Lewis R French anchored off Burnt Island, near North Haven.

The French hosts twenty guests, with a crew of five. The weather was excellent. We had a little bit of everything: sun, sporting wind, fog, light wind, and some shooting stars, thanks to the Perseid meteor shower. Guests are welcome to hoist and lower sails, sound the fog horn, steer, raise anchor, and help row one of the two wooden rowboats to shore and back. The French operates on sail only, but tows a diesel tender behind which is used to push it in and out of harbors and as an auxiliary motor in case there is no wind at all.

Kurt, Kevin, and Edie also came on the trip, which made for even more fun. We arrived one day ahead of time to explore Camden and other towns a bit before boarding our cruise. We stayed at the Lord Camden Inn, and had a great view of the entire harbor from our balcony.

A view of Camden inner harbor. The French is the schooner on the left

We didn’t have to board the schooner until 5pm, so we had plenty of time to explore. We drove to the top of Mount Battie and took in sweeping views of Penobscot Bay, and Camden Harbor.

A view of Camden Harbor from Mount Battie, and Penobscot Bay beyond.

We also visited nearby coastal towns of Rockport, Damariscotta, Rockland, and Bath.

Our first night we slept aboard at the dock in Camden. In the morning we set off to the east, ending up anchoring at Burnt Island outside North Haven. We enjoyed a lobster bake ashore on the beach.

The next day we headed north, it was a long day of sailing, sometimes in light wind, sometimes in moderate wind, anchoring in Holbrook Harbor. We rowed ashore for a short walk on one of the islands there before dinner.

In the morning, I was happy to hear that we would sail to the nearby historic town of Castine after breakfast to grab a mooring and then go ashore for a couple of hours. I walked to the lighthouse and back, exploring the museum and the historic fort locations along the way.

Dyce Head Light at Castine.

After everyone was back on board, we hoisted sails again for a really lovely sail in good winds south to Gilkey’s Harbor at Islesboro.

Eagle Island Lighthouse near Deer Isle.

The next morning we headed out in thick fog southwest back to Camden.

Curtis Island Light at Camden

The food aboard was plentiful and delicious. The chef “OB” kept bringing up baked goods, meals, and snacks from the galley below.

A large and well-appointed galley is where all the food magic happens. The wrap around table can seat about 20 if need be.
O.B. plays a mean concertina.

Captain (and owner) Becky kept things running smoothly. First mate Alex and her deck hands Jesse and Jenny kept things ship shape and made it all look easy.

After coming ashore again in Camden, we piled into the car headed back to Portland. We bid adieu to Kurt, dropped Edie and Kevin at the airport, and then Monte and I hopped a Casco Bay ferry over to Great Diamond Island to stay with Lori and Mike for a few days in their wonderful vacationland home.

The old ice pond at Diamond Cove on Great Diamond Island. Now a pretty place just to sit. And maybe get married.

While they no longer have a sailboat, they have a new addition, a 27′ Boston Whaler that is moored at the island. We used it to head over to Peaks Island one night for dinner, and to spend an afternoon taking in a floating concert at Cow Island.

The Flotilla to Fight Cancer was a concert on the water. The band played from the stern of these two lobsterboats moored together.

This is my 3rd summer visit to Maine, and each has been very memorable and fun.

Beach bound.

We made a trip to Port Aransas this weekend for their wooden boat show. I always enjoy our time spent there. The weather was still pretty hot for the end of October. Shade was in short supply.

The historic Tarpon Inn is where we like to stay. No TV or clocks in the rooms. But it’s in the middle of everything.

The porch of the Tarpon Inn outside our room at sunrise.

We enjoyed fantastic meals at Tortuga Saltwater Grill and Venetian Hotplate, I highly recommend both. And thankfully found the best coffee shop in town at Barefoot Beans (they open at 6AM!).

We toured the UT Marine Science Center exhibits and outdoor wetlands displays.

We checked out the sand pumpkins on the beach.

This morning we spent a couple hours at the Leonabelle Turnbull Birding Center and saw over 30 species, including the American Flamingo that has become a local.

On the drive home today we stopped for BBQ at Smitty’s Market in Lockhart. The Subaru looked so tiny parked amongst the big Texas PickUps. 🙂

Back home now watching a sad Seahawks game unfold. Oh well. It was fun weekend nonetheless.

All that jazz.

Monte and I finally made it to Parker Jazz Club this week. It was a fantastic show. We’ll definitely be back. Laura advises and works closely with the club and completely surprised us with a bottle of bubbles and a shout out from the stage. 💙

Thank you, Laura!!

You should all go whenever you are in Austin!! Link with info about the club and their calendar here.

A diamond of an island.

Monte and I just got home from visiting Lori & Mike and their new home in Maine. It is on an island a few miles offshore from Portland, Maine. Like all the other homes in the private community at Diamond Cove, theirs is a thoroughly modern restoration of a historic building from the former Fort McKinley Army Base. Fort McKinley began operating in the late 1800s, is now privately owned, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The island is amazing; beautiful, historic, full of woods, bike paths, beaches, and wildlife. How lucky they are to have found it.

Sunset on our first evening – a view of Fort Gorges in Casco Bay

We rode the ferry many times – walked and biked on several islands in Casco Bay – sampled brews and seafood in Portland and nearby towns – toured the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, Maine – played a little cornhole – found a geocache – found an insane amount of sea glass at the beach – spied several shooting stars from the Perseid meteor shower – took a historic tour of the island – boarded a sunset cruise on a schooner in Casco bay – visited Portland Head Light. Monte and Mike even found time to complete a project in the well-equipped community woodshop on the island.

A view from the deck of Schooner Bagheera of Portland Schooner Company

Portland Head Lighthouse

I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. Laura also planned a visit at the same time between trips to visit her family and it was really great to spend some time with her, too.

Plum tickled.

Several years ago we planted a few new trees in the way back. One is a Mexican plum (link here). It has established itself in the face of drought and recent hard freezes. I was excited to see that this year it has fruit on it!

Mexican plum tree

Sunday drive.

I am not one to complain about all the great rain we’ve gotten this week. God knows we need it. Yesterday was mostly overcast but dry. It was a good day for a drive in the hill country, and for a pickup party at Becker.

A brief appearance of blue sky.