Ashore.

We disembarked the Queen Mary 2 at the Mayflower Cruise Terminal in Southampton on a sunny, brisk day. Our travel plans typically include train travel, which we prefer to rental cars. So we waved goodbye to the grand ship and grabbed a cab to Southampton Central Rail Station. We headed out on a day trip to Winchester.

We stowed our bags at a business near the rail station to explore the 10th-century, medieval capital of England on foot.

Our goal was to visit beautiful Winchester Cathedral, whose construction began in 1079 and was completed in 1532. When we arrived, we learned it was closed because it was hosting back-to-back graduation ceremonies for the various colleges of the University of Winchester. Doh!

The West entrance of Winchester Cathedral

I did try to breach their defenses several times, but the Cathedral is still well-defended. So we admired it from outside and decided to make another visit later in our trip to see its grand medieval architecture from the inside.

East end of Winchester Cathedral

North transept of Winchester Cathedral.
The flying buttresses along Winchester Cathedral’s southern wall of the nave

After our consolation lap around the Cathedral grounds, we toured the City Museum, which tells the history of Winchester from its Iron Age, Roman, and Anglo-Saxon origins to the present day.

Winchester’s City Museum

We then headed off to find what remains of the ancient Winchester Castle. Its Great Hall still stands, adjacent to the modern-day Crown Court. Inside is the Round Table of the legendary King Arthur’s Knights. The massive oak table is thought to be one that the real King Alfred had built for a wedding celebration in the 13th century, but King Henry VIII in the 16th century had it painted with the Tudor rose, the names of 24 knights, and the character of King Arthur said to be in his own image to link him to the legend. Or so one story goes.

The Round Table of the Great Hall of Winchester Castle

Stained glass just loves a sunny day!

Stained glass inside the Great Hall.

Nearby stands the West Gate of the former Castle. Modern-day traffic just zips by.

The West Gate of Winchester Castle

We grabbed lunch in a nearby pub and then caught a train headed to Portsmouth Harbour Rail Station. Portsmouth is home to the Royal Navy’s Historic Dockyard, and our base for the next 3 days.

View of the HMS Warrior from our hotel room in Portsmouth

More historic ships and ancient architecture to come!


Links for the curious:

British National Rail website. Install their app on your phone for easy access to timetables, real-time train status, and online tickets. I used it every day. There are multiple local railways (South Western Railway, Great Western Railway, etc) that have their own websites, but the National Rail app integrates them all.

British National Rail’s Railcard information. This is a railcard that you purchase for a one-time fee, valid for a year. In return, it gives you 1/3 off train fares in off-peak times. We bought the “Two Together” railcard for 35£ and it paid for itself several times over. It’s a digital card, so you should install the Railcard app on your phone to show at ticket offices and to ticket inspectors on the trains.

Radical Storage website for luggage drop/pickup locations. They also have an app, but I just purchased via their website on my phone. This worked great for us. Their location in Winchester that we used was a vape shop 🙂 But it was very convenient to get to from the train station. The system is easy to navigate and use, and I felt our bags were very secure both times we used it. They have locations worldwide! I’d definitely use them again.

Winchester Cathedral visitor info. Make sure to check for scheduled closures 🙂

The Explorer Pass to visit Winchester’s City Museum, the Great Hall, and Westgate.

A ship (not a boat).

The reason Monte and I were in NYC was to board the Queen Mary 2 for a week-long transatlantic cruise to Southampton, in the UK. Over the years, we had always pooh-poohed the idea of taking a cruise, being little boat sailors. But we really had a great time.

This’ll be a long post, so for the TL;DR crowd: if you’re on the fence about going on a cruise on the Queen Mary 2, you should just do it. 🙂

We boarded Pier 12 at the Brooklyn Cruise Ship Terminal, an easy walk from our hotel in Red Hook. The weather was brisk, but it was bright and sunny most days.

Our first glimpse as we rounded the corner at the cruise terminal

The Queen Mary 2 (QM2) is a Cunard ocean liner. One of the many things I’ve learned over the last week or two is that an ocean liner is different than a cruise ship in many ways; most importantly, their speed, hull strength for long ocean passages, and stability. These ocean liners have hydraulic stabilizers below the water line that attempt to counteract the ship’s roll, pitch, and yaw. I believe we averaged 21 knots on our eastbound crossing, and this was in what a sailboat would consider very challenging conditions (4-6 meter seas and 25-40 knot winds), but the Queen Mary 2 made it along very comfortably.

The ship is filled with artwork, this is the Queen Mary 2 herself

Launched in 2003, the QM2 is a beautiful ship inside and out. And the Cunard standard of service is legendary. This was our first ever cruise, so we did a little research prior to leaving. They suggest dressing in “smart attire” for dinner, and have two gala nights where gowns and black tie is encouraged. We somehow found a way to pack for that in our carry-on sized roll aboards. And it was fun.

The sail away celebration above-decks was festive and we got great views of NYC as we left at 5 pm.

Leaving NYC behind
Approaching the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge
Passing under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge

We chose a balcony-cabin and loved it. I booked one midships on the starboard side, so we would not be exposed to the fall north winds, and to be able to see the sunrise most mornings on our northeasterly heading.

Welcome-aboard bubbly in our cabin 🥂

Deck 5 was very quiet. I know this crossing was probably fully booked, but we heard no one and nothing except the ocean when the door to the balcony was open. They have bigger suites, but ours worked out perfectly for us. Air temps were in the 50s, so it was chilly in late October. Even so, I found myself enjoying our balcony everyday.

Cabin 5087

We crawled all over the ship each day and I think we found and spent time in just about all the public spaces – some were harder to find than others, but all so lovely.

The Grand Lobby

The cruise departs NYC on a Friday evening, and arrives in Southampton the following Friday morning. I wondered how well I’d handle all those idle hours on board for a week. But I was not idle in the least. There are loads of activities and entertainment from morning through night everyday: classes, speakers, musical performers, exercise sessions, theatrical and comedy performers, too many to list.

There is constantly something going on to enjoy

Since we were traveling eastward, for 5 of the days at sea, the ship clock moved forward one hour at noon, so when we arrived in the UK, we’d already be on local time.

The food was delicious and always available. We had the same table for two in the restaurant each night, so we got to know our servers. We met different people every day on board which was also a hoot.

There is a formal afternoon tea every day in the Queen’s Room, which we took part in several times.

We attended some of the various entertainment every evening, but we always ended up in the Chart Room where the Vlad Zinchenko Trio played jazz all night long.

Jazz in the Chart Room

The promenade is on Deck 7, and 3 laps around it make a mile. Even though it was very windy, we made it out there several days to get our steps in. There’s also a great gym aboard that’s much warmer 🙂

A rainbow behind the ship, somewhere in the North Atlantic

I had hoped to take in some star gazing at night but boy was it windy on the top deck at night! I could have been easily blown off if I wasn’t paying attention. I’ll stick to dry land for celestial viewing.

But while up there I walked by the “Queen Mary 2” sign lit up below the smoke stack and was transported back to the night Lori and I left NY Harbor at sunset headed down to Cape May on Trident when I saw this same sign through the binoculars as I tried to read the name of that pretty ship that sailed by us at a distance as it left NY Harbor.

The QM2 name in lights up high on the ship

I just went back through my photo archive and found a picture from that very night on Trident, October 7, 2022. I remember telling Monte about it after I got home, and where it was headed, and he said, “we could do that.” And so we did 🙂

The QM2 sailing by SV Trident three years ago leaving NY Harbor

While sailing along the US coast from a sailboat, I’ve also seen, through binoculars, pilots boarding tankers while underway before entering a major harbor. So I wanted to try to get a glimpse of the pilot boarding the QM2 outside of the Solent strait before our arrival in Southampton. I got up very early and was fortunate to find they were boarding right below our cabin. I had a front row view. 🙂 What a job they have.

Pilot boarding the QM2 before entering the Solent – both going about 8 knots!

We planned to stay in England for 9 more days after disembarking; more on that later. I made use of the onboard laundry so our suitcases were full of clean clothes again when we arrived.

We had a blast. Until next time, Mary!

What a great ship ❤️🖤💛

Links for the curious:

Cunard’s transatlantic cruise website. You can call them and they will answer any questions you have, before or after you book.

Where to stay the night before departure? We stayed at Lodge Red Hook. Not fancy, but an easy walk to the Cruise Terminal. They also have a nice breakfast included. We flew in the day before, and it made for a stress-free transfer without worrying about unexpected travel delays. The Uber from JFK to the hotel was about $100.

There is also a convenient South Brooklyn-Manhattan foot ferry at the cruise terminal, which we used while we were there. To go to Manhattan, get on at Red Hook towards Corlears Hook. You can purchase tickets from a machine at the dock.

Red Hook visitor info. Red Hook is very walkable, and we found several nice restaurants and wine stores near the hotel.

Pro Tip: You can bring 1 bottle of wine/alcohol per passenger onto the QM2 in your carry-on luggage, so we made sure to pick up a couple of nice bottles in Red Hook before heading to the cruise terminal.